I’ve chosen to go with several thin strips of 16″ (0.8″ X 0.45″) teak for the outboard cap rail/rub rail. The Glen-L plans for Lo-Voltage call for mahogany over 1″ in various sizes.
Using smaller strips is more time consuming, but very easy to work with when you are doing the job alone. Best of all, it yields a stronger finished laminate beam if you use proper epoxy glue and clamps.
I found it’s very hard to stem and clamp into place a 16″ strip of wood before it cools. For example, in the photo below, the plans call for a single (1 1/4″ x 1″) strip where I am using 6 laminates producing relatively the same size rub rail.
First layer of 3 laminates.
Last night, with the help of three other people, we covered the hull in fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin. I’m happy with the result and I will roll on 2-3 more thin coats of special clear activated resin over the next few days. It’s looking like the hull will need little or no fairing compound. I will be able to prime and paint very soon.
The hull is finished on my 15′ electric boat I’m building from Glen-L plans called Lo-Voltage. There are no screws or nails used so far in this construction method.
I have made some changes to the Glen-L plans
This video shows the build process of a Stitch and Glue Sea Kayak. This was my first attempt at this construction method. You can purchase the plans from Glen-L Marine.
