After spending the night on the Troy Dock, we set out on a frosty September morning for lock 1 (Troy Lock). Troy Lock uses the pipe system for locking vessels exclusively, where as the Erie Canal locks always have ropes and cables to use in the same fashion as pipes.
My only real concern was our vertical clearance, even though I’d measured three times and removed mostly everything from our hardtop. The last bridge before the Waterford Lock (2) was very intense.
We have been locking port side for two days now and only because I have an aft deck wing station on that side. We pick up one line upfront just for show and with a little help from the engines and thruster once and a while, the boat just sits there. The locks are very small and not not violent at all. The boat barely moves and it’s not like the locks in the Panama Canal or St. Lawrence Seaway in any way. Keep in mind we are 97 GRT and 61 feet, so on a smaller boat I would absolutely have two line on at all times.
Below is a time lapse video of Lock 2 (Waterford) and Lock 17 on the Erie Canal System.
AVAILABLE IN HD
I’ve chosen to go with several thin strips of 16″ (0.8″ X 0.45″) teak for the outboard cap rail/rub rail. The Glen-L plans for Lo-Voltage call for mahogany over 1″ in various sizes.
Using smaller strips is more time consuming, but very easy to work with when you are doing the job alone. Best of all, it yields a stronger finished laminate beam if you use proper epoxy glue and clamps.
I found it’s very hard to stem and clamp into place a 16″ strip of wood before it cools. For example, in the photo below, the plans call for a single (1 1/4″ x 1″) strip where I am using 6 laminates producing relatively the same size rub rail.
Several years ago I built a 26′ replica of an East coast dory. This is a video showing the build.
This video shows the build process of a Stitch and Glue Sea Kayak. This was my first attempt at this construction method. You can purchase the plans from Glen-L Marine.